Part 2: A Slow Boat And A Beautiful Town
The first part of our Northern Thailand-Laos journey had ended and the next part began when we arrived at the Thai-Laos border
By around 3 pm we had reached the border. This is a very low-key border crossing. I’m pretty sure we were the only people crossing the border at the time. After being processed and then walking through the departure channel we waited for other border crossers to arrive to board a bus to take us across the river to the arrivals section of Laos immigration. Here we went through the visa application process which included filling out some forms, providing a photo and paying a $USD 40 fee.
We were finally in Laos and now just needed to get to the hotel and connect my iPad to the wifi before the cricket began at 5.
Unfortunately, things don’t usually happen particularly quickly in Laos. Eventually, we were in the back of a jeep, squashed in with other travellers from Israel, New Zealand and Brazil and headed first to the bus station to drop off those who had opted to take an overnight bus rather than the morning boat.
Eventually, we were at our hotel in the quaint little border town of Huay Xai, happily drinking a local Laos beer and watching cricket on my iPad in the hotel lobby. Huay Xai is a typical border town. There really isn’t that much there. But the morning pancakes before heading to the pier were sensational.
The Slow Boat And Some Reflection Time
It’s not called the slow boat without reason. Day 1 was to be a 7-hour boat ride down the Mekong to the small and hilly town of Pak Beng where we would stay overnight. Day 2 was to take 8 hours.
The boat itself could be seen as kind of a metaphor for the journey of life – a reminder to slow down, embrace the present moment, and appreciate the beauty of the surrounding world. As the boat sets off, you realize the power of patience and the art of surrendering to the natural flow of life. There is nobody getting off this boat once it begins. I had some books to read and some snacks, but this was still going to be a little tough.
The boat is pretty full with 40-50 other people. We are all seated on old car seats that have been very loosely bolted to the floor of the very basic long narrow boat that seems like it could likely be a hundred years old. There are no luxuries here and the sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai now feels like a 5-star hotel.
I try to remember if I enjoyed this journey when I first did it 6 years ago as I fight for a fair share of our car seat. I also remember that the food options available will consist of cup noodles chips and beer. Luckily I packed a few snacks.
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As we motor along the Mekong River, the scenery gradually changes, revealing the stunning landscapes of Laos. Towering limestone cliffs rise from the water, covered in lush foliage. This is one rugged country.
The riverbanks are dotted with remote villages, where locals go about their daily routines, seemingly unaffected by the outside world. Again, I am reminded by the apparent simple way of life, of the importance of contentment and finding joy in the small things.
During the slow boat journey, you have the opportunity to interact with fellow travellers from all walks of life. People from different countries and cultures share stories, laughter, and a beer or two. It always strikes me that despite our differences, we are all bound by our shared humanity and love of travel and adventure. Age was irrelevant as all travellers share their journeys so far. However, it is worth noting that my friend and I definitely caused a rise in the average age of the 40 or so travellers on that boat.
As I observe the people around me and listen in on conversations I’m often wondering how much people really appreciate the ability to travel freely and the experiences that they are having in other people’s countries. Many on our boat are quite young and I’m probably feeling a little jealous that I wasn’t lucky enough to travel the world at that age. As a teacher, I love spending time with young people. But a little piece of the teacher in me is always hoping that they are learning along the way. There is just so much to learn when travelling.
Halfway There
After slowly counting down the hours we do eventually arrive at our overnight stop in Pakbeng, a small riverside town that offers a brief immersion in the local culture. We eat great food once again and after rising from hotel beds the next morning and walking the short walk to town, witness the bustling morning market, where vendors sell colourful produce, exotic spices, and handicrafts.
It is a vibrant tapestry of sights, sounds, and aromas, reminding you of the richness of diversity. I have also learnt that 8 hours on a boat is a hell of a long time and I had better stock up on food before Day 2 begins. I find a selection of sandwiches, pastries and other snacks as well as some traditional Laos sausage.
Resuming the journey on the second day, we again observe another slow transformation of the landscape. The Mekong widens, becoming a grand and imposing force of nature. At times the boat appears to be carefully navigating the channels as the speed slows. Life is filled with challenges and obstacles, but like the river, we have the capacity to flow, adapt, and overcome. I was more worried about adapting to my sore backside and growing impatience.
The Amazing Luang Prabang
Finally, we arrived in Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a jewel of Laos. The city’s ancient temples, French colonial architecture, and vibrant night market create a harmonious blend of cultures and histories: all on the banks of the mighty Mekong. It is a testament to the beauty that emerges when diverse influences come together.
In the next four days, we would see exquisite wooden heritage buildings, eat traditional Laotian food, observe Buddhist traditions and meet monks as we give alms in the early hours. We will also see beautiful scenery and meet beautiful, if slightly reserved people.
Luang Prabang is the spiritual and cultural capital of Laos. Here you have the chance to immerse yourself in unique experiences that deepen your understanding of the country’s traditions and values. One such experience is the giving of alms to the monks, a daily ritual in Luang Prabang. Before sunrise, the streets come alive with locals offering food and other essentials to the saffron-robed monks. Witnessing this act of devotion and generosity reminds us of the importance of compassion and selflessness in our own lives. I’m always a little reluctant to take photos of monks so I opted not to for the alms-giving ceremony. You can get a feel for it though from an image that I sourced elsewhere taken from the same street.
Later that same day though when hiking to the top of Mount Phousi in the centre of town I met an apprentice monk. He was very keen to practice his English and was insistent on getting a photo. I obliged and got one myself.
Another highlight of Luang Prabang is a visit to the beautiful Kuang Si Falls. Located about 30 kilometres south of the city, these cascading turquoise waters amidst lush greenery create a breathtaking sight. As you navigate the trails and (if you choose to) plunge into the cool pools, you find solace in nature’s beauty and are reminded of the need to preserve and protect our natural environment. Here we managed to get in another short hike which was basically climbing to the top of the waterfall.
Located within the park is a bear sanctuary that works to protect endangered bears and to educate visitors about the challenges faced by these creatures. Laos is one of the few countries where Asian Black Bear can still be observed in conditions close to the wild. Unfortunately, this gorgeous species are endangered, and only rescue centres and human efforts can save it. The Asian Black Bear is also known as the moon bear for its white V-shaped spot on the chest.
Hire a bike
For a unique perspective on Luang Prabang, consider renting a bicycle and taking the ferry across to the opposite side of the river.
As we pedalled through the picturesque countryside, we passed by charming villages and encountered locals going about their daily lives. This immersive experience provides a glimpse into the everyday reality of Laos beyond the tourist hotspots. At the end of one path, we discovered a village where a large number of monks were living.
Interesting Historic Influences
Luang Prabang is a World Heritage site largely due to its European-influenced architecture from a colonial era, fused with traditional Laos culture. The town is immaculately well-maintained and one of the most beautiful towns that I have ever visited.
Luang Prabang also bears the influence of Laos’ socialist roots, which can be seen in the hammer and sickle flags commonly on display. This is a reminder of the country’s political history and its commitment to socialist ideals. While the ideology itself may be subject to debate, the presence of these flags serves as a reminder of the complex tapestry of Laos’ past and its ongoing journey toward defining its future. We found it interesting that it was the former Soviet flag rather than a Chinese one that was on display.
It should be noted that there are several infrastructure projects financed by China that are currently underway. One completed project that I was not aware of before this trip is the joint Laos-China fast train which now runs from Vientiane to Luang Prabang and beyond. Hence, it seems that China is seeing commercial opportunities in Laos that are bound to have an influence. One can only hope that Luang Prabang is able to maintain its unique character despite these influences.
The People
As I have travelled throughout SE Asia I am very appreciative of the great hospitality and friendliness shown by people of all walks of life. In places such as Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines the emphasis on customer service and providing an enthusiastic greeting and smile is quite obvious. In Laos, the interactions are a little more reserved.
Though in some cases the customer service was exceptional, at other times there appears less emphasis on treating tourists as some kind of royalty in order to entice a sale. At times this may have appeared as less than efficient customer service, but in a way, it seemed to me as more genuine and honest. It also reminds us that different cultures have different ways of dealing with people and that it isn’t necessary to conform for the benefit of tourism. In some cases, people just appeared a little shy which was also quite endearing.
It’s Fun To Mix With Fellow Travellers
For me, travel is all about the people that you meet along the way. One part of this is meeting fellow travellers, sharing stories and enjoying fun times. I benefitted greatly more than 20 years ago when I met a group of international teachers who, like me, were travelling through Vietnam. They introduced me to the amazing world of international teaching. It has been one of the biggest influences on my life. On this trip, I was the one trying to explain the life of an international teacher to young teachers from England, Canada and New Zealand. It was one of those ‘life coming full circle’ moments.
But It’s More Important To Meet The Local Residents
The best part of international travel, I believe, is interacting with the true residents of the country that I am merely passing through. In Laos, I recommend that you make an extra effort to get to know the locals. For me a beer in a sports bar while watching cricket was one such opportunity. Though my new friends had no idea what this crazy bat and ball game was all about, it provided a talking point to get things started.
Another tip is to ask questions about the food that you are eating. I found that people were very proud to talk about and answer questions about food and other parts of their culture. Sometimes you just need to make that little extra effort.
Making An Effort
Here are four examples of efforts made on this trip that I highly recommend for any trip to Laos.
- Definitely arrive by boat. Sure there’s a railway now and a bus. But two days on a boat to Luang Prabang really feels like a right of passage thing. Have you really been to Luang Prabang if you didn’t spend two days on a boat with the very same people that you are likely to run into over the duration of your time in Luang Prabang?
- Get on your bike. Walking is great. But hiring a bike just allows you to go that extra distance in exploring the beautiful town of Luang Prabang. Take your bike and put it on that ferry to the other side of the river. That was probably the best thing that we did on this trip.
- Giving alms to the monks. 5.30 am is an early rise but it really is a nice experience. Buy some fresh fruit the night before and give this rather than the junk food that I saw many people giving
- Make the effort to meet the locals and ask questions about their country. This should be the norm on any trip. We are guests and we should feel honoured to be able to travel to interesting places. But it’s not about us. It’s about them, so find out as much as you can. Be polite, respectful and friendly. You may make friends for life.
Final Thoughts
I hope that it’s clear to see that I loved my time in Laos. I’m not sure if I need to do the slow boat trip for a third time. But I will definitely be back. Laos is truly a fascinating and beautiful country. It is landlocked and therefore doesn’t have the usual SE-Asia attraction of beaches and coastal resorts.
This makes it just a little less travelled. It could aptly be described as ‘the land in between’. It is certainly ‘in-between’ Thailand, China, Myanmar, Vietnam and Cambodia geographically. But it also feels a little ‘in-between’ in terms of culture. This makes it quite unique.
So, if your journey around SE Asia does not require you to spend all of your time lying on a beach, then please do take the time and make the effort to get to know Laos and its people. It’s definitely worth the slow boat ride.